Critic Reviews
By Rob Balon
Eating Out with Rob Balon
May 12, 2006
Austin is a town that is literally changing before our eyes. Once again, we are in the national spotlight for accelerated growth, gentrification of neighborhoods, and that almost overwhelming sense of self-fulfilling prophecy that seems to say “get thee to Austin.” Yet there’s a potential dark side to all this expansion. We’ve got to be careful to preserve the things that are uniquely Ausintatious; you know, those little joints where families from neighborhoods cluster and have some good chow.
Such a place is the Café 1626 on S. Manchaca Road not far from the fire house. It was originally named Crazy Betty’s after a former owner. I like this place so much that I even recorded the first known hip-hop restaurant critic “flow” in the history of radio on Hot 93 in Austin. 1626 is about burgers and pizza and sandwiches and neighborhoods, and yeah, it’s about Austin.
Café 1626 is comfort food at its best. Let’s start with the salads. I like the Greek Salad with Feta cheese and ultra fresh cucumbers, lettuce, and Greek peppers. And it’s nice every now and then to sink your teeth into an old-fashioned Chef Salad with turkey, ham and provolone cheese. Kind of retro but it works.
And the burgers! The patties are fresh, never frozen, and hand formed. They don’t need no stinking machines! And the output is great. I love the Swiss Mushroom Onion Burger. This is owner Maurad Belkacem’s favorite and mine as well. The beef is inundated in sauteed mushrooms and the swiss cheese and onions round out the package. And the bun is incredibly fresh, another huge plus for me. And do try the Fish Fillet Burger. This is a breaded cod fillet that crushes the fish sandwiches at the fast food places. Again, great flavor, freshness, texture and home-style cooking win out.
The quality of the sandwiches and subs at 1626 is unmistakable from the first bite. The Deli Club is a good example. This is ham and turkey with fresh Swiss cheese, tomatoes, lettuce, mustard and mayo on a FRESH (do you hear me???) French roll. Very tasty. And Maurad’s version of the Philly Cheese Steak is worth tasting. They key to a good cheese steak is the grilling of the razor-thin beef. 1626 adds onions, green peppers, Swiss cheese and the all-important mayo. The roll is fresh. But what else did you expect?
And pizza. While 1626 may not be Pepe’s in New Haven, CT, no place else in Texas is either. And 1626 does a good job with their pies. Carnivore that I am, I like the Road Kill pie. Every meat you can conceivably imagine and then a few more. But the Greek is tasty as well. Different kind of flavor with an emphasis on lighter, more aromatic middle-Eastern ingredients. And a garlic butter sauce that really rocks.
And in a world where most restaurants say they welcome kids but really don’t, Café 1626 provides good kid chow and an environment (game room) where they can have fun and you can have your sanity. This place works for families, but it’s not a scream-a-torium like a Gatti Town. Mom and Dad and junior can all find a way to peacefully coexist.
So if you want to hear my rap, follow the directions below. We’ll run it on the site for one week. It’s pretty famous by now in food circles. Come to think of it, so is 1626.
By Dale Rice
Austin American-Statesman Restaurant Critic
July 22, 2004
The parents of two families sat there, engrossed in conversation at tables that had been pushed together. Empty chairs marked the spots for their half-dozen children, who were playing in the adjacent video-game arcade and occasionally ran back to the table for a breathless announcement. No, it was not dinnertime at some new Chuck E Cheese. It was better.
It's the family-oriented Cafe 1626, a burger/pizza joint on Manchaca Road about 1 1/2 miles south of Slaughter Lane. Although the place radiates a sports bar atmosphere, with television sets broadcasting a variety of events and a walled-off video arcade, it was still possible to conduct a normal conversation in this casual spot.
But the ability of adults to talk with one another is not the only reason to visit Cafe 1626. A good burger -- made from one-third pound of beef that had not been frozen -- came with all the regular trimmings (including lots of chopped onions) and a side of fries. Although the regular cheeseburger ($5.50) was not greasy, the bacon-cheeseburger ($5.75) produced enough oil that the bun rapidly disintegrated.
On a better-than-average, all-you-can-eat pizza buffet ($5.95, including a drink), Cafe 1626 offered a wide variety of pies with plentiful meat and vegetarian toppings. It's clearly a hit with the kids, who were piling their plates high with slices. From a small Italian lineup, the homemade lasagna ($6.99) consisted of a tasty and generous portion of pasta and meat sauce that came with two thick pieces of garlic bread.
From a much wider variety of submarine sandwiches, the meatball sub ($5.50) featured homemade meatballs covered in marinara sauce and melted cheese on a soft French roll.
With those hearty portions and moderate prices, it's easy to see why families head to Cafe 1626. Besides, they can actually have a conversation there, too.
You may contact Dale Rice at drice@statesman.com or 445-3859.